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Cooking with Amy: A Food Blog
 
Ruth Reichl Q&A

Thursday, March 30, 2006

For those of you who missed Ruth Reichl, the good news is her talk will be broadcast on Writer's Voice Radio on KALW. When I have a date I will post it.

In the meantime here are some highlights:

What do you cook at home on a Tuesday night?
Fast things. Spaghetti carbonara, lamb chops, potatoes, steamed fish. Gourmet Everyday recipes from the magazine.

What projects do you have coming up?
HBO has bought and is developing a series based on Comfort Me with Apples and Garlic and Sapphires.

If not New York, what are the great food cities right now?
Hong Kong, Sidney and London. What's happening in Asia is stunning. There are well-trained chefs, lots of money and an obsession with the regional cuisine of China. It seems to be percolating into Australia.

Favorite restaurants in London?
St. John and Moro.

Favorites in New York?
Telepan and Pearl Oyster Bar.

What food writers do you admire?
AJ Liebling, MFK Fisher, but also non-fiction writers who happen to write about food such as Diana Abu-Jaber and Bemelmans.

What do you think of the rise of celebrity chefs and the Food Network?
Cooking is connection that we all desperately need. People don't see their mothers and aunts cooking and so they turn to television chefs. Unfortunately it's not taking people into the kitchen.


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Ruth Reichl Speaks!

Tuesday, March 28, 2006

Last year I had the pleasure of hearing Ruth Reichl speak as part of the City Arts and Lectures series. Her third memoir in the series, Garlic and Sapphires had just been published and in addition to reading selections from the book, Reichl shared her favorite cookbooks, told stories of reviewing restaurants in disguise, revealed what it's like running Gourmet magazine and recalled memories of living and eating in the Bay Area in the 1970's.

This evening Ruth Reichl is speaking at A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books at 7 p.m. Do show up early, her appearance last year was sold out and I'm sure it will be a packed house. If you get there before me, save me a seat!

I have already gobbled up Ruth Reichl's first two memoirs, Tender at the Bone, and Comfort Me with Apples. In each of them Reichl took me into her confidence with deeply personal stories, her warm and witty style and charmed me with her wonderful food writing. Not surprisingly she's just as engaging in person as she is on the page. Now that Garlic and Sapphires is out in paperback it's likely to be my next read.

A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books
601 Van Ness Ave
San Francisco
415.441.6670

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Sunday, March 26, 2006



Is there anything tastier than reading Pim's Thai cooking posts? Probably not. She shares secrets you're not likely to find elsewhere unless you have a direct link to Thailand. Savor her latest series which begins here, continues here and here.

Cookie Crumb of I'm Mad and I Eat has taken on the most valiant effort in the kitchen, "The Ice Harvest". Track her progress, which began on March 18th. When will it end? Ask Amana Freezerburn.

Heidi at 101 Cookbooks beat me to the punch. I was going to write about The Itty Bitty Kitchen Handbook but she got to it first!

Let me just add, this friendly little book has tons of strategies to help you cope and thrive in a tiny kitchen. Perfect for someone with an RV, a boat, studio apartment, you name it. While Heidi's post focused on solutions for cleaning, author Justin Spring's strategies for shopping and cooking were my favorite parts of the book. I loved his tips for doctoring cornbread mix, his toaster over version of Gingerbread, Lamb Chops and one pot recipes like Dried Porcini Mushroom and Barley Soup.


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Zagat Survey

Friday, March 24, 2006



It's that time again. If you register with Zagat, then rate three or more San Francisco restaurants, you will receive a free copy of their popular guidebook. The survey has been streamlined this year and it's much easier to fill out. This year you can even win $100 if your comments are witty and insightful enough. Enter the survey by April 16, 2006.

If you're not a subscriber, sign up for free, here.

And go here to enter the San Francisco survey. Do it today, before you forget!

Other active surveys include:
New York
Los Angeles
Philadelphia
London

Though some people prefer the online edition, I like to have the guidebook around because it's a convenient way to search for restaurants by neighborhood or type of cuisine. On the other hand, it's by no means comprehensive or entirely accurate, especially when it comes to prices. The ratings are democratic in nature which may or may not be the best method of evaluation. With the Zagat, you end up with a popularity contest. But that said it is awfully handy as a kind of directory to have in the glove box or stashed by the phone.

Personally when it comes to choosing a restaurant, I'd prefer to stick with the recommendations of someone I actually know and trust. For restaurants in San Francisco, two great guides that I wholeheartedly recommend are the San Francisco Food Lover's Guide by Patricia Unterman and The Slow Food Guide to San Francisco and the Bay Area. As an added bonus each includes markets wine shops and the Food Lover's Guide also has a handful of signature local recipes.

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Cinnamon Balls: Recipe

Wednesday, March 22, 2006



Oh the trials and tribulations that come with spending holidays with the family! Will they never cease? The trials and tribulations that is. With so many relatives around it's easiest to just go with the flow. This year due to some changes in plans, it looks like Lee and I will be celebrating Passover three times. Oh joy! Lee loves the holiday so it's no big deal for him. And actually we will be spending the first night together just the two of us which will be a first in our five years of marriage.

A first time celebrating the first night of Passover means I can try a bunch of new recipes. New to me anyway. I have a couple of books I am eager to try out. One is Jewish Food: The World at Table and the other is The Healthy Jewish Cookbook. Both books have tons of exotic recipes that will allow me to wipe out the memories of the Jewish food I loathe most--gefilte fish. Neither book has a Passover section, so I will delve into each book to find recipes that fit the specific holiday requirements (no leavening including anything that contains barley, wheat, rye, oats, or spelt) And perhaps this year I will actually keep kosher for the entire week of Passover. We'll see.

I'm always looking for a delicious Passover dessert recipe, Cinnamon Balls are a perfect fit and also use up that bag of almond meal I've been wondering what I was going to do with... This recipe is getting a trial run this week and then it will premier at three Passover seders. If anyone tries it before I do, please report back.

This recipe reprinted from The Healthy Jewish Cookbook courtesy of Frog, Ltd. North Atlantic Books

Cinnamon Balls
serves 4-6

3 egg whites
1 heaping tablespoon ground cinnamon
5 ounces ground almonds (about 1 2/3 cups)
7 ounces brown sugar (about 1 cup)
Rice flour, for dusting (or powdered sugar)

Method
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Beat the egg whites until very stiff. Add the cinnamon, almonds and sugar and mix well. Roll the mixture into balls about the size of a large plum, set on a greased cookie sheet and bake until set--about 20 minutes. Dust with rice flour before setting aside to cool.

RECIPE UPDATE!
I made this recipe tonight and the egg whites have to be beaten until stiff and dry.

I don't know what "large plum" size is, but I made them using a tablespoon and they were a bit too big. I think a teaspoon would be better.

Also don't roll them, just lightly shape them, a rough surface is more attractive on the finished cookie.

Finally tablespoon size cookies made 23, way more than enough for 4-6 servings! I'll try again with a teaspoon and report back.


For a more detailed review of The Healthy Jewish Cookbook and a recipe for Orange Olive Salad, check out my post at Bay Area Bites.

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Kappa: Restaurant Revisited

Monday, March 20, 2006

When I went to Japan I thought I knew what Japanese food was. Boy, was I ever wrong! Going to Kappa is much the same experience. In addition to the kimono-clad hostess, the menu written in Japanese and the virtually all Japanese clientele, the food is koryori style, a traditional small plate cuisine from Kyoto not found anywhere else in town. Sure most of the dishes are familiar, but if you order the prix fixe meal several of the items are quite out of the ordinary.

Lee has been wanting to go back to Kappa ever since we went two years ago for his birthday. Since the prix fixe meal is rather special that was his choice again for this year's birthday. As I mentioned the last time around, there is no sign in English for the restaurant and the wooden door slides open so you really don't know where you are going. Lost in Translation anyone?


The monkfish liver was one dish I remember from our last meal, creamy and mild yet firm almost like a Japanese foie gras.


Dungeness crab


I apologize for the poor photo. I am getting over a cold and struggling with a new camera, so bear with me...This course included meltingly tender octopus in red bean, duck, sea snail, uni served as sushi a chicken meatball, a tofu and fish melange and a refreshingly tangy, sweet and sour mountain berry.


Next a sashimi plate notable was the fresh real wasabi and the outstanding octopus, more delicate with none of the rubbery quality you often find. Lee thought the snapper was the best he'd ever had.


Mostly grilled items on this plate, grilled herring stuffed with a spicy red peppered roe, a perfectly crispy boneless fried skate wing, homemade unagi, this buttery sweet barbecue eel was my favorite, and grilled beef tongue. The texture was not like tongue I've had before, it was firmer, more like a thin steak.


Can't tell you much about the soup other than there were enoki mushrooms, a shrimp ball, some fresh mustard greens and bamboo shoot in it. The spinachy green pillow might have been some kind of mochi, I'm not sure.


Finally the end approaches! A red bean paste over sweet rice, black sesame filled mochi, fresh mango and pear.

And a perfect cup of green tea. Happy birthday Lee!

Kappa (go upstairs from the Denny's, then through the door that says "night club" and open the sliding door inside with no sign)
1700 Post St., Suite K
San Francisco
(415) 673-6004 - Call for reservations after 4:30pm
Mon - Fri: 6pm - 10pm
Saturday: 6pm - 9pm

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Saturday, March 18, 2006



Check out Gastronomie's oh-so-cutting-edge meal at WD-40 WD-50 . If you haven't had a meal that qualifies as "molecular gastronomy" reading this post is the next best thing.

Guess what's still languishing in my fridge? Rutabagas and leeks. So the soup made over at Albion Cooks was just the inspiration I needed. Those parsnip pancakes look pretty luscious too.

Finally if you are dying for more details of the opening of Trader Joe's in New York, Apartment Therapy: The Kitchen reports back and even took photos.


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Contest Winners

Thursday, March 16, 2006



Here are the answers to yesterdays quiz:

What's the most popular cheese on a pizza in Ohio?
A. Parmesan
B. Ricotta
C. Mozzarella
D. Provolone

What's the signature pizza in Boston?
A. Pepperoni
B. Clam and Garlic
C. Mozzarella and Basil
D. Lobster Marinara

Which pizzeria is the longest continuously running in one location, by the same family in the U.S.?
A. Giordano's
B. Totonno's
C. Grimaldi's
D. Lombardi's

Congratulations to Sharon, Amy and Anu who each won a copy of Pizza by Diane Morgan and Tony Gemignani.

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Pizza Contest

Wednesday, March 15, 2006
Italy may be the birthplace of pizza, but it's plenty popular here in the U.S. where there are over 61,000 pizzerias, and 350 slices of pizza are consumed a second.

Just how much do you know about American pizza? Take the quiz below and find out. The first three people to correctly answer all three questions below will win a copy of Pizza by Diane Morgan and Tony Gemignani. Choose the correct answers and post your guesses in the comment section, be sure to include your email so I can contact you, if you win! Mailing address must be in the U.S or Canada. Only one entry per person so choose carefully. Good luck!




What's the most popular cheese on a pizza in Ohio?
A. Parmesan
B. Ricotta
C. Mozzarella
D. Provolone

What's the signature pizza in Boston?
A. Pepperoni
B. Clam and Garlic
C. Mozzarella and Basil
D. Lobster Marinara

Which pizzeria is the longest continuously running in one location, by the same family in the U.S.?
A. Giordano's
B. Totonno's
C. Grimaldi's
D. Lombardi's

My interview with Tony Gemignani, author, pizzeria owner and five times world pizza throwing champion is up over at Bay Area Bites today so do stop by and take a peek.

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Pizza: Cookbook Review

Tuesday, March 14, 2006



The Bay Area is not really known for pizza but maybe it should be. After all we are the home of pizza throwing champion Tony Gemignani. No one is more passionate or knowledgeable about pizza than Tony. Perhaps you've seen him on TV doing tricks or teaching others how to toss the dough. He's the captain of the World Pizza Champions and even invented a silicon based glow-in-the-dark pizza dough practice disk called "ProDough". He has a pizzeria out in Castro Valley called Pyzano's Pizzeria and has written a book called not surprisingly, Pizza. He studied at a pizza school in Italy and speaking from personal experience, he makes a great tasting pizza.

Most of my cooking is the quick and easy variety. But every once in a while I take on something that requires a little more planning, a little more time, a little more effort. Not brain surgery by any means, but not one of those I'm-hungry-what's-in-the-fridge meals either. While certain things I won't take on such as croissants or puff pastry, pizza is the perfect candidate. As Tony recently told me, it's not that hard to make. But there are some secrets to getting it right.

The best way to learn Tony's secrets are to get a copy of his terrific book. Pizza is co-writtten by Diane Morgan and has recipes for just about every kind of pizza you might want to try-- traditional Neapolitan style pizzas, New York style pizzas, Chicago style deep-dish pizzas, California style pizzas and even grilled pizzas. If you are serious about making pizza this is a really good book because it goes into detail about all the ingredients and all the techniques, leaving nothing to chance. A real hands-on guide, it is paperback and has flaps to hold the book open in the kitchen. It's available on Amazon for only $12.32, less than a large pizza these days.

Tomorrow read my interview with Tony over at Bay Area Bites and come back here for a contest with fabulous prizes...

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Sunday, March 12, 2006



This week my choice of posts range from sensible to shocking to sublime. I hope you enjoy them.

Can you make a delectable meal completely by shopping at Trader Joe's? Sure you can! Stephanie of The Grub Report frequently does and shares her top picks.

While out shopping with the very same Stephanie, I came upon a butcher's counter with huge slabs of pork belly.
The first little voice said "go for it".
While the second little voice said "you have jumped off the gym bandwagon you may NOT buy that".
Apparently the first little voice had more luck with Derrick at Obsession with Food, who shares his handiwork with a ten pound slab.

Want to be your own Pierre Herme? Ok then check out Food Musings chocolate truffle adventures. After Catherine's success, I am tempted to try this one with orange or kumquat peel instead of lime...that is if the second little voice doesn't win out again.

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Cooking with Amy Survey

Friday, March 10, 2006



I'd like to invite you to take part in a short online survey so I can get a better sense of who is visiting and how I might improve Cooking with Amy.

Just to be perfectly clear, I have no plans on accepting advertising, the survey is only to help me to improve the site and better understand what you are looking for when you visit. I'm not interested in making money from the site, just in making it better.

Take me to the Cooking with Amy Survey!

If you take the survey, you will also have the opportunity to join a panel of food experts. From time to time Cooking with Amy will be conducting surveys and soliciting your opinions about food and beverages, products and services that might be of interest to you. In return for your participation, I will occasionally be offering incentives such as products to try, gift certificates or cookbooks.

Stay tuned and next week I'll have a trivia contest where you will be able to win one of four copies of a terrific pizza cookbook.


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Brightest Sunshine in a Jar:McQuade's Elgin Habanero Chutney

Wednesday, March 08, 2006

What happens when Scottish creativity meets a Central America chili pepper in San Francisco? My choice for the Taste Everything Independent Food Festival Awards is what: McQuade's Elgin Habanero Chutney. Alison McQuade handcrafts chutneys that are bright and deliciously spiced with just the right amount of heat. She uses only natural ingredients and doesn't overcook the chutney keeping it chunky and fresh tasting, not gooey. All her chutneys reach the perfect balance of spices, sweet and sour flavors that gives them their distinctive tang.

Alison began making chutney as a gift for friends and neighbors, using her grandmother's Spiced Apple Chutney recipe. But she quickly went beyond the traditional with seasonal flavors like Cranberry and Mandarin, Melon and Peach and even Persimmon. Now her chutneys can be found on local menus and in shops, although they are still popular with her neighbors. Look for them in places like Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Building Marketplace, because they pair so well with cheese.

Though I like all of McQuade's chutneys, Elgin Habanero Chutney, a combination of apples, onions, chilies, crystallized ginger and a mix of Indian spices has got to be my favorite. I use it more as a condiment like salsa than traditional chutney. Sure it's great in a grilled cheese sandwich or with roast lamb, but try it on a hamburger, on a baked potato, or a quesadilla. Wow!

While Alison pays homage to her native Scotland in the naming of her chutneys, her inspiration comes from what's fresh, what's new and sometimes even what's on the cocktail menu (could a Mojito chutney be next?). When it's a little warmth I crave, Elgin Habanero Chutney is just the thing. McQuade's chutney is the perfect antidote to the foggy days of Scotland or San Francisco. (that's also why the jar is only half full)

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For more information, please visit the Taste Everything Independent Food Festival Awards.


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Trader Joe's Hall of Fame

Tuesday, March 07, 2006



What's the most anticipated store opening in New York City? Based on the blogs I'm reading (Gawker, Gothamist, etc.) I'd have to say Trader Joe's.

What makes Trader Joe's so special? It's a store with personality, quirky and slightly goofy, but endearing to most just the same. It's not best as a one-stop shop grocery store, but there are lots of great products lurking. For the quality of the products they carry (not to mention the money-back satisfaction guarantee) their prices aren't just competitive, they are often cheaper than you can find anywhere else (check out the prices on Valrhona chocolate for example).

I've been a Trader Joe's shopper for years but it wasn't until the third San Francisco store opened just a stone's throw from my house, that I started shopping there almost weekly.

Everyone's got their favorite picks at Trader Joe's. Here are my Top 10:

1. Plugra Butter
2. Chicken Sicilian Sausage with Tomatoes and Romano Cheese
3. Wasabi Mayonnaise
4. Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes (canned)
5. Chocovic Ocumare chocolate bars
6. Canned Whole Kernel Corn
7. Toasted Sesame and Ginger Potato Chips
8. Limeade (seasonal I think)
9. Trader Giotto's Pasta (imported from Italy, handcrafted)
10. Fresh Pizza Dough

Honorable mentions to Canned Organic Beans and Canned Artichoke Hearts

I'm skipping wine, because the prices and selection change frequently but this is really where Trader Joe's built it's reputation. I'm also skipping fresh seasonal produce, but I've already sung the praises of Fiesole artichokes and white asparagus. They also have wonderful deals on flowers like daffodils and irises.

So for those unfamiliar with the "Trader Joe's phenomenon" just how fanatical are Trader Joe's shoppers?

There is a blog that is devoted to Trader Joe's
a fan site
a discussion group
a song about Trader Joe's
and... a group for singles who shop at Trader Joe's and are "sick of accidentally checking out attached people while shopping for groceries." (I swear I'm not making this up)

So what are YOUR favorites at Trader Joe's?

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Sunday, March 05, 2006



I've only recently discovered the thoroughly wonderful blog, Matt Bites. This week his post on artichokes answered a question I posed about Fiesole artichokes almost a year ago to the day.

Do you only have one bottle of soy sauce in your pantry? Well shame on you! Me too. But I've learned what I need to know about soy sauce from the latest primer over at Tigers & Strawberries and so can you.

You've heard of dessert for breakfast, crepes, fruit salad and the like, but how about breakfast for dessert? Check out a la cuisine who documents Smoked Bacon and Egg Ice Cream, Pain Perdu and Tea Jelly.


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Eat Me/Delicious

Friday, March 03, 2006

Meccadonald’s, Kenneth Hung, Digital Media, 2002

A tasty coincidence? Eat Me and Delicious are two art exhibits occurring this month in San Francisco. Check them out in person or online.

Currently on view at the Frey Norris Gallery Eat Me: Emerging Artists on Consumption is an exploration of consumer culture, and features the work of five west coast-based artists, Susan Bettag, best known for illustrating the "“Bad Girls Guides", Trek Thunder Kelly, "Super Pop" LA artist, Ema Harris-Sintamarian, nominee for SECA-SFMOMA award, Kate Eric a hugely popular local artist duo and Kenneth Hung, digital media artist who has recently shown in over 20 countries.

Over thirty five new works include interactive digital media, “consumer objects utilizing knives, condoms, and lunch bags, oil and acrylics on canvas and works on paper. Eat Me opened yesterday and runs through April 15.

Delicious is the second annual group show of art inspired by food and drink at STUDIO Gallery. Work from over 60 local artists will be on display, including everything from functional pieces and sculpture to work for the wall, from traditional still lives and landscapes of Bay Area vineyards and organic gardens to more humorous pieces from the likes of Brian Behnke, Ayu Tomikawa, Bill Dunlap, Lola, and Dave Higgins.

There are lots of small, affordable pieces in the show, as well as a number of striking larger works. Opening reception is Saturday, from 4-8 pm. The show runs from, March 1st through Sunday, April 2nd.

Frey Norris Gallery
456 Geary St @ Mason
San Francisco
Open Tuesday – Sunday 11 - 7
415.346.7812

STUDIO Gallery
1718A Polk St @ Washington
San Francisco
Open Wed-Fri 11-8 , Sat-Sun 11-6, Mon-Tue by appt.
415.931.3130

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Favorite Things: Charles Chocolates

Wednesday, March 01, 2006


You probably think you know what this is, right? A box of chocolates, with some missing. Oh, but it's so much more than that. First of all, this box of chocolates is a box of Charles Chocolates. If you're lucky enough to have had Charles Chocolates you know that these are some of the best, premium, handcrafted, fresh chocolates made in the Bay Area.

But there's still more to this story. The box you see is one I got from Chuck Siegel, the Charles of Charles Chocolates. I got it at his facility in Emeryville where I got to see his talented pastry chefs in action making and creating brand new delicious confections. While Chuck is self-taught his staff is strictly professional with experience from top-notch restaurants like the Fifth Floor and Farallon.

Better than a golden ticket to Willy Wonka's chocolate factory, visiting a real chocolate factory, meeting Chuck, tasting and even taking home confections so new that they have yet to be officially launched, is what makes me love what I do. Can you blame me? So I bet you're now wondering which of those chocolates are the new ones. Well, the squares in the picture are all fabulous new flavors, but that's all I'm saying for now.

You can find these chocolates locally at my favorite chocolate shop, CocoaBella, at Bittersweet Cafe and Gumps or you can have them shipped to you directly from Charles Chocolates. And do head over to Bay Area Bites to read my interview with Chuck when you get a chance.

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